The History of Pangkor and the Dutch fort

Pangkor Island is situated off the West coast of the Malaysian Peninsular in the Straits of Malacca. It sits within the state of Perak which means 'silver'- a state that is rich in local Malay history, rich in tin, much planted with palm oil plantations but also containing some of the most beautiful rain forest in Malaysia. Along the Perak River a traveller can see a charming array of typically idyllic Malay wooden architecture and villages. It truly is one of the most lovely areas in Malaysia. Many of its 'new' villages and towns established during the 'Tin Rush', provide great examples of architecture that combined the best of Colonial, Malay and Chinese style. Many of these towns are no longer on a main route so they more often than not have an air of abandonment- but this is beautiful in itself.

Pangkor Island is small, approximately 10 km long and 2 km wide. Villages have developed along parts of it's coastline with Pangkor Town, Sungei Pinang Besar and Sungei Pinang Kechil, being the main areas of settlement. Smaller Malay kampungs have been long established in Teluk Gedung, Pangkor Town, Teluk Kechil and Teluk Dalam. The whole of the island is covered in jungle with 3 main Permanent Forest Reserve areas within them. The island has previously been lightly logged in the 1920's and 1930's with the sliding ditches still visible within Tiger Rocks boundaries, along which buffalo were used to pull out logs. Some rubber was also grown by small holders at the that time. Pangkor's coastline is dramatic with the jungle and huge boulders(common all over the island) often looking as if they are tumbling into the very blue green coloured sea.

The forest on Pangkor is special in that it has now been left to grow without interference and so has a great variety of tree and plant species including many old diptocarp trees. These trees are the main reason the island has such a strong population of Hornbills, providing nesting holes for the Greater Hornbill, the Wreathed Hornbill, Black Hornbill, Rhinoceros Hornbill and the very common Southern Pied Hornbills. Giant ficus trees provide food for all. The bird life on the island is varied with many migratory birds coming through the jungle. One of the most stunning is the Asian Paradise Flycatcher in its white morph stage. These trees are also popular nesting sites for the White Bellied Sea Eagles, and are hosts to the largest orchid plants in the world. Very ancient cycad trees are also found at several sites on the island. It is home too, to the very reclusive and endangered Greater Argus Pheasant or Burung Kuang, (which is always heard at Tiger Rock with many display sites behind the Studio and Hill House). Wild boar are very common as well as civet cats (musang), flying lemurs, large monitor lizards and the ever present small macquac monkeys. There is a huge range of insects and butterflies which are preyed upon by towkay geckos, sun lizards and the little army of delightful flying lizards. The beautiful emerald coloured Wagners Pit Viper is also present and considered locally as a guardian and lucky omen. All these creatures are present at Tiger Rock and we see them on a daily basis.

The population on Pangkor numbers around 20,000 and this makes for a thriving local island economy. Boat building, fishing- especially for the small anchovy type fish(ikan bilis which is steamed then sundried and ready for sale)- and local tourism are the mainstay businesses on the island. There is plenty of retail therapy for island style clothing and accessories and the local street life is vibrant especially in the morning when all the food stalls are out and open. Walking along the hilly roads is popular with the locals and is great exercise. Join everyone in the morning and the late afternoon!

The Dutch Fort on Pangkor was established in 1670 and garrisoned until 1690, and again briefly from 1745 to 1748. Earlier in 1650 the Dutch had built a fort on the Perak River, but this was captured by the Malays the following year. From Malacca and these forts the Dutch tried to maintain a blockade of the Perak coast and to compel all ships to call at Malacca by means of a squadron of small sloops.
The Dutch surrendered Malacca and its dependencies to the British in 1795.

It now gets complicated. In 1871 Sultan Ali of Perak died and the Raja Muda, Abdullah- the rightful heir- was invited to attend the funeral and be installed as Sultan. Abdullah was weak and unpopular and feared to accept the invitation so after 32 days the Perak chiefs, impatient with him, installed the Bendahara Ismail instead. Raja Abdullah never gave up hope and started to intrigue with the Ghee Hin, a clan of Chinese, who had seized Matang and was blockading the Larut coast (the tin field area in dispute amongst Chinese secret societies (the Ghee Hin and the Hai San) and whose revenue was collected by the Perak chief Ngah Ibrahim. Ngah Ibrahim, a Mantri(one of the 4 great officers in the state) supported the Hai San(the opposition Chinese clan) and resented Abdullahs interference.

The Governor Sir Harry Ord, did not recognise the rival Sultans and recognised the Mantri as an independent ruler. As this all brewed, the British Government decided to intervene and in January 1874 , Sir Andrew Clark (Governor in 1873) met the principal Perak chiefs(except Sultan Ismail) and the Chinese headmen at Pangkor.

Here an agreement was reached that Raja Abdullah be recognised as Sultan and accept a British Resident ''whose advice must be asked and acted upon on all questions other than those touching Malay religion and custom". Sultan Ismail would receive a title and pension. The islands of the Dindings and a strip of coast opposite were to be ceded to the Straits Settlements (comprising Penang, Malacca, Singapore and now the Dindings). The Perak chiefs accepted reluctantly, the Mantri was unhappy that he was no longer acknowledged and that Abdullah would be Sultan, and Sultan Ismail was obviously furious.

At the same time the Chinese leaders agreed that Commissioners appointed by the Governor could settle their differences. Captain Dunlop, Mr Frank Swettenham and Mr W A Pickering were given this task and within a month reported that a satisfactory devision of the tin fields had been made. This agreement is known as The Pangkor Treaty.

After the murder of the British resident, Mr J W W Birch ( The wrong man for the post, he did not think the local customs worthy of any consideration) on the Perak river, a plot in which all the Perak chiefs were involved, Sultan Abdullah and the Mantri amongst a few others, were banished to the Seychelles. Ex- Sultan Ismail lived the rest of his life in the state of Johore.

So began the British colonisation of Malaya.

The Pangkor Fort was left abandoned. It has recently been refurbished as a tourism site. There are various stories surrounding it. The most intriguing is the carving on a large rock close by. Locally it is said to have been carved by the Dutch to commemorate the taking of a Dutch child by a tiger on the island. It is said that a Dutch child did go missing but more probably that the child got lost or was killed by hostile locals. No one really knows the true story. Look carefully at the carving, then look at the Dutch insignia and the carving looks like the lion and shield within the insignia. In the end interpretation is left to your own imagination! Apparently the Dutch left treasure too, and it is hidden in a warren of underground caves behind the Fort, within the grounds of Tiger Rock. We have found 2 coins of the British East India Company, under the Main House but so far that is all!

It is after this carving in the rock that we named "Tiger Rock".




1. Travel
Roads & infrastructure in Malaysia are of the highest standard. We are linked to Singapore & Thailand by the North South Highway.
Approximate drive time KL – Penang 3 1/2 hrs
KL – Singapore 3 1/2 hrs
Internal flights are efficient. Johore, K.L., Ipoh, Penang & Pangkor Island are all connected to Kuala Lumpur.
KL Subang Airport to Pangkor Island – 40 mins.
Charter planes & helicopters are available on request. Please ensure you have full travel insurance before you travel.

2. Foods
Food is fantastic in Malaysia. We have not only great Malay, Chinese, Indian & European Cuisine, but because cultures have become so intermixed a wonderful blend of dishes & foods have developed. It is fresh, cheap & delicious & above all safe. If a place is busy, try it! All your waking hours can be spent tasting & nibbling, Malaysia is a major gluttons delight!
At the all properties, special diets can be catered for e.g. gluten free, vegetarian etc.

3. Religion
Malaysia is an Islamic country. All other religions, however, are freely practiced. Alcohol & consumption of pork is not restricted, although the majority of restaurants within malls & hotels are ‘halal’ i.e. no pork is served.
We are very lucky in Malaysia to be truly multicultural & to be able to be free as individuals. It is liberal, relaxed, modern & fashionable.
A reasonable amount of common & good sense goes a long way in any unfamiliar culture, & it is worth noting that most Asian religions prefer a modest sense of dress.

4. Medical
Malaysia is full of clinics & hospitals. The government hospitals are of an extremely high standard & our many private hospitals offer specialist treatments in luxury.
Before embarking on your journey, please ensure you have taken out full medical insurance.

5. Water
The tap water in Malaysia is fully treated & chlorinated. Generally, the standard of hygiene in Malaysia is good. Bottled water is readily available everywhere. Always keep hydrated.

6. Weather
It is almost always hot & humid during the day. Rain can be just a drizzle or absolutely bucket down with thunder & lightning. It dries up fast & you can generally get on with your day. Evenings can be cool enough for a long sleeve shirt or light shawl. If spending time in the highlands, a sweater is needed.

7. Insects & Other Animals
Malaysia is lucky to be so rich in flora & fauna. Large animals should not pose a problem but mosquitoes may. They are part of the tropics & can be irritating. They seen to be able to pick out ‘ fresh blood’, so repellent is a good idea. Dark colours attract mosquitoes so wear light colours.
At all the houses you will be exposed to insects, butterflies, beetles, moths & small animals, like monkeys, lizards, squirrels, birds, wild boar & flying lemur. They are all to be enjoyed.

8. Communication
I.T. is big! Getting hold of people is not a problem – phones, faxes, e-mails reign.

9. What to Bring
Malaysia is tropical & relaxed. If spending time in KL a smarter, more sophisticated outfit (can’t go wrong with black!) will come in handy. Other wise white, beige or khaki is good. Cotton, natural fibres is the way to go. You will sweat, so rule number 1 is to KEEP COOL! You must wear sunblock when in the sun.
For day : Cotton shirts, T-shirt, shorts, swimwear, pareos,, hat, sunblock, camera, small binoculars, sneakers or sandals.
For evening : Light pants, light shawl, sarong, light long sleeved shirt.
Colours to wear : White, beige, khaki, pastels.

10. What not to bring
Do not swamp yourself with things like sunblock, insect repellent, shampoos, nappies etc. All of this kind of stuff is readily available everywhere.
In terms of first aid if you must bring something, a couple of plasters & asperin, some tummy pills are a good idea for emergencies. Childrens fever syrup (Calpol) is readily available.
Film you can get everywhere.

11. Shopping
Malaysia offers brilliant retail therapy. Bring an extra bag! Clothing, accessories, souvenirs, fabrics, electronic goods, music, kids stuff – the list goes on. Spices, kitchen utensils, antiques, baskets, Little India, Chinatown, jewellery, food, flowers, shoes.
No one will feel deprived.

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The Country

Spread over 330,000 sq. km. Comprising West (Peninsular) Malaysia & East Malaysia (located along the northern 1/3 of the Island or Borneo.)

States in the Peninsular are Perlis, Kedah, Perak, Selangor, Negeri Sembilan, Melaka, Johor, Pahang, Kelantan, Terengganu, & the Federal Territory of Kuala Lumpur. In East Malaysia we have the states of Sabah & Sarawak, & the Federal Territory of Labuan. Total 13 states plus 2 Federal Territories.

The 2 portions of the country are divided by 540 km of the South China Sea. Thailand borders are to the North, Singapore Island at our Southern tip. To the West & South are the islands of the Indonesian archipelago. The Straits of Malacca runs along the west coast dividing us are from the south of Sumatra.

Population – 27 million.
Approximate breakdown - 60% Malay & Indigenous races
30% Chinese
10% Indian & others.

The Government

Malaysia is a parliamentary democracy & a constitutional monarchy. The government is headed by the Prime Minister & his full Cabinet. 9 states have a Sultan as Head of State, 4 have Governors. The Sultans rotate as King, each with a 5 year term. A Mayor administers each of the 2 Federal Territories. The Federal Government wields the power, except for issues involving land, culture & religion, which are all decided at State level.

Religion

The official religion is Islam. Other religions are freely practiced, the main being Buddhism, Christianity, Hinduism, Taoism & Sikhism.

Visas

Commonwealth Countries – no visa required except for Bangladesh, India, Pakistan & Sri Langka.
Citizens of Israel, Serbia & Montenegro cannot enter without permission from the Malaysia Government.
Indonesia, Philippines & Thailand – require visa unless they are on a Social & Business Visit for less than 1 month.
Most other countries – no visa required for a Social & Business Visit unless duration exceeds either 1 or 3 months. Check country requirements at the nearest immigration or diplomatic mission office.

Upon arrival – Disembarkation forms must be filled.

Your passport must be valid for 6 months.

Sabah & Sarawak are treated like separate sovereign states – you need your passport when traveling between them & the Peninsular.

Drugs & Firearms

Both drugs & firearms are illegal in Malaysia. The procession of either [Firearms without a license & drugs in an amount that deems you a trafficer] is punishable by death under Malaysian law.


Currency, Travellers Cheques & Credit Cards

The local currency is called ringgit and sen. There are 100 sen in one ringgit.

Most international credit cards – Visa, Mastercard, JCB, American Express & Diners club are widely accepted in Malaysian cities. You will need your passport to cash your travelers cheques.

When traveling off the beaten track it is best to have some ringgit with you. You can use credit cards at ATM machines or at banks which generally give better exchange rates than hotels.

Utilities

It is safe to drink the water from the tap waters unless otherwise stated. Bottled water is widely available.

The power supply is reliable & is supplied at 220 to 240 volts & plugs are 3 pin. Those with electrical appliances are advised to bring electrical adapters.

Health

There are no major diseases in Malaysia. Travellers should be mindful that there are occasional outbreaks of dengue fever – a virus transmitted by a mosquito that bites during the daytime, & prefers populated areas. Dengue fever is generally not fatal but can interfere with travel plans. An insect repellent containing DEET is recommended.

Although malaria used to be a problem, it is not prevalent now. Anti-malaria medications are advised if visiting Sabah & Sarawak, or remote swampy areas of Peninsular Malaysia.

Risk of waterborne illness is low but it is always prudent to travel with an over-the-counter anti-diarrhea medication.

Immunizations to get

Hepatitis A – is recommended over Hepatitis B Vaccine, Hepatitis A being the food & water borne illness that knocks you out badly.

Tetanus/ diphtheria (Td) – A booster every 10 years regardless of travel.

Influenza & Pneumonia vaccines – recommended for age 65 or older, & for anyone with chronic respiratory or cardiac problems or diabetes.

We do strongly recommend that you consult your physician regarding medication & immunizations.

Language

The official language is Bahasa Melaysia. English, however, is very widely spoken, understood & in general use everywhere. Other languages spoken widely are Cantonese, Mandarin, Hokkien & Tamil.

Basic Phrases

Good morning, afternoon, night – Selamat pagi, petang, malam
How are you? – Apa khabar?
Thank you – Terima kasih
How much is this? – Berapa harga?
Welcome – Selamat Datang
Come In – Sila masuk
Sit down – Sila duduk
Bye – Selamat Tinggal
Farewell – Selamat Jalan